It’s a bit hard to really get across in photos but Santiago is a city covered by smog. The Andes mountains do a great job of stopping it moving east into Argentina, so it just kind of hangs around. Like a murky brown layer of introverts at networking cocktails.
Feet
For all the smog-creating traffic, though, Santiago was a pedestrian’s delight. Wide footpaths, cars that stopped to let you cross the road, parks. It was a breath of… well, it was a nice change from Buenos Aires and Cordoba. Sure, there are still street dogs and their indiscreet obstacles, but it’s a nice place to get around on feet.
I was very impressed with Santiago’s metro system. The lines seemed to make sense, and trains came along every 3 minutes or so. You never need to run for a train in Santiago because another one is right behind. Plus the transit cards — officially called “Bip!” cards because of the beep sound when you use them how cool is that? — just needs to be scanned on the way in. You don’t need to remember to “bip off” when you alight the train/bus etc. It’s so gosh-darned logical and it all works and why (no offence) can Chile get this right but Australia can’t?!
Buildings
There is no one architectural style to the city. Exploration reveals some delights.
I’m a bit obsessed with this evil villain’s headquarters that stands out from the smog cloud in front of the snowy Andes mountains. I want one. Please?
Security
DFAT via Smartraveller.gov.au (I only just noticed the portmanteau-y-ness of the combined “T” in the web address. I’m sure there is a grammatical term for that) and various other sites warn to take care of your personal safety and your belongings throughout South America. And yeah, I did see a gunpoint robbery in Cordoba. But I never felt properly unsafe in Santiago.
The “offbeat Santiago” walking tour took us across the river into the traditionally poorer side of the city. Back in the beginning it was decided that the less-savoury aspects of life would be set up on the other side of the river from the nicer things, and that division somewhat remains. When we first crossed the river, it was via a bridge with makeshift market stalls taking up most of the footpath, and I kept my hands in my pockets to secure my wallet and phone. I’m wary of — and fascinated by — pickpocketing. But so far, 6 weeks into our trip, so good. The worst that has happened to us is that I was given a fake 5 soles coin (worth AU$2) in Peru.
After our guided adventure into the other side of the city we ventured across a few times alone.
Things noticed while shopping
DIY Spanish Lessons
It’s slow going learning Spanish because we’re not in one place long enough to do proper classes and I’m not really putting myself out there trying to have casual conversations in Spanish. But one thing I have found useful is sitting in the library reading books for children. The first one was a Dora the Explorer book, and it was actually really helpful. Learning (with help from Google Translate) not just nouns and verbs, but also verb forms and tenses.
I have been told a few times that I speak Spanish well, but I’m not sure if they’re just being amable.
History and politics
I’m a bit embarrassed how little I know/knew about the history of the countries we are visiting. Other than some slogans and posters, it’s easy to not notice that there is still political unrest in Argentina and Chile. In Santiago we heard about the world’s first democratically-elected socialist president Salvador Allende, and the military coup which led to his death. And we read the memoir “Paula” by his niece Isabelle Allende which talked briefly about her experience during that time and after. (One unusual coincidence: the bombing of President Allende’s offices happened on the 11th of September.)
We both have Kindles, with family sharing, which means we can both read the same book at the same time. So we’re ignorant, with no excuse, and can also be snobs about it.
In preparation for the Galapagos Islands I’m reading Charles Darwin’s Voyage of the Beagle. He seamlessly switches between descriptions of an animal’s behaviour, unique characteristics, habitat, and cooking instructions. It leaves a strange feeling in one’s stomach.
Food
We are mostly picking restaurants based on recommendations and reviews/ratings in TripAdvisor, trying to balance eating traditional food with good local good, and mostly we have been very fortunate. We now have something of a tradition of going back to our favourite place for a farewell dinner on our last night in town. In Santiago that was a place in Barrio Italia, Casaluz, that was recommended by the first hotel we stayed in. A mix of Italian and Chilean influences.
We’re being a little less adventurous than we would for a shorter trip. For one, we have a pretty tight schedule so we don’t have time to get sick (again. Having said that, I’m writing this while Lucy sleeps off a bout of dodgy food. So far we are one each.) Secondly, we’re trying to lose a bit of ‘study weight’ while on holidays, so we’re trying to eat less and better. We did get to try a bit of “street food” in the markets on a walking tour: sopaipilla con pebre, which is deep-fried dough with a coriander and tomato hot sauce (which we later made in the cooking course in Valparaiso). The tour guide bought one for everyone, then something else for himself.
